Last miles before Yukon!

Aug 5/10

Change of plans: the fires have closed Hwy 37 between Dease Lake and the Yukon border. Our only route into the Yukon is Hwy 97, the famed Alaska Highway! Maybe we can do our Yukon visit and then come out south via Hwy 37 and take 16 across BC to the prairies.

And so, today we head for Chetwynd through pine forests, hay fields, giving way to deciduous tress—cottonwoods—then lakes and forest (mostly pine). Snacked at Crooked River—warm and lots of cicadas celebrating summer! Drove on to McCloud—oldest continuous settlement in BC (1805). It now consists of a general stores and liquor outlet, plus post office.

At 4:30 the sun comes out—finally—there has been a gray smoke over everything.

We are driving along the Rocky Mountain Trench—and they are recognizable Rockies, even to those of used to the Roger’s Pass version of Rockies! Not much other traffic today. Arrived at Chetwynd to an RV park West. . . . .—great washrooms and laundry. The sites are industrial and full of garbage—our firepit has a worn out serpentine belt in it and the next door picnic table is covered in empties, a towel and someone added socks during the night!

Aug 6/10

Before leaving Chetwynd, we drive around and look at the chain saw sculptures from the competition the town hosts. Look at the pictures—mythic and First Nations subjects executed in perfect detail!

Today we headed into the Peace River country and stopped for along time at the Bennett Dam. The creation of Williston Lake is a work of destruction and of beauty. (He retired to Victoria, and lived just down Cedar Hill Cross Road from us. He knew Elizabeth.) We took the tour of the powerhouse: “ginormous” does not begin to describe the forces present in the mountain. When we exited into the manifold room with its 6 stories of water swooshing out into the valley, I felt a strong need for some poetry—and some cello!

The Peace River and its valley are beautiful beyond description. Mountain ranges with dark tree lines and stern rocky tops slop down to foothills then wheat and hay fields on steppes and finally to the river valley. This extraordinary piece of the earth must not be flooded to make the Site C under discussion. It is unique and irreplaceable.

The car is to be commended for managing the many 10% grades with switchbacks. Thank goodness for the driving practice in the Okanagan! Tonight we are camping at just north of Fort St John at Charlie Laken and plan to take the morning to do a bit of banking, wash the car etc before heading further north. I like it here; it’s peaceful and basic.

The RV Park at Charlie Lake Recreation and Leisure Park is beautifully treed and carefully tended. A retired couple touring on a motorcycle tell us how dreadful the road is south of Dawson and also south of Fort Nelson. Noted!

Aug 7/10

We tour the museum in Fort St John. It has settings of life in a hospital, in trappers cabins, during WWII, in kitchens as well as an excellent explanation of the role of the Hudson Bay Co and the forts in the area. This is a very young area of the country and I recognize from my childhood many of the tins of spices and washing machines!

Then we have lunch at Mama Panda’s and head for Fort Nelson. I’m curious to see the town because two of my favourite colleagues have taught there. The drive is gray again—this time because of rain.

When we arrive we stay at the Bluebelle Motel and RV Park. This is another RV parking lot, though with full services. Poor Jim sets up in the rain and we stay in all evening—so does everyone else. It continues to rain all night and in the morning the trailer is sitting in a puddle and Jim is sliding around, nervous to unhook the electricity in the midst of the wet!

The washrooms are in a building which has a lake in front of it. This place is off the list for the return trip!

Aug 8/10

This is a landmark day in that we enter the Yukon. Now we’re really north, although we are nowhere near Dawson yet!

We stop at Tetsa Lake Service for gas and to try the ubiquitous cinnamon buns. Gas is $1.40/litre, but the cinnamon buns are fabulous! We talk with a German couple who are touring. We have wonderful information about RVing in Norway if we ever get there!

Still raining—wonder if any of this moisture is far enough east to help with the forest fires. Apparently the highway is now open sometimes with a pilot car convoying a few vehicles through.

Then we stop at Toad River—the usual gas station, restaurant and motel. We see the same couple from Germany. We are all afraid to pass a gas station. There are numerous settlements like Toad River but they have been closed and we get nervous about what might be ahead. We were warned to drive on the top half of the tank—top quarter is even better—the German couple had very nearly run out of gas!

Had lunch at the Muncho Park pullout—water is supposed to be many different colours, but it is such a grey day that one can only imagine!

Then we stopped at Coal River—more gas. Burning premium right now to give the engine every chance on the grades. Not much traffic it seems.

Arrived at Watson Lake at 6:35. Trees in the campground RV Services—very ordinary name for a charming site—and such a nice treat after the wet start to the day in Fort Nelson! Now starts the Yukon adventure!